All-Parish Gingerbread Extravaganza

Today was a day devoted to South African history: Johannesburg, Apartheid, the leadership of Nelson Mandela, defining events during the struggle and a side excursion to the South African Supreme Court. Our awesome guide for the day was Nosipho, a fantastic storyteller and a wealth of knowledge about anything and everything South Africa. In this space I will try to not repeat historical facts but rather the experiences we encountered and some observations that may pique your interest. The day began with a brief discussion of Mandela Square, home to our hotel and a shopping and dining venue. A centerpiece of the square is (literally) a larger-than-life statue of Mandela, a great backdrop for the requisite selfie. Not unlike many places at home, the square is all decked out for Christmas in the middle of November! Onto the minibus we went, to a Johannesburg site called Constitution Hill: former fort, former prison and current South Africa Supreme Court. Court was not in session but we were treated to a site history and a press box view of the court itself, where eleven justices preside. Much of the courtroom, gallery and the handwoven flag itself contain some kind of symbolic reference to South Africa, from the bricks taken from the old prison to the unique cowhide of the justices’ seating area. Fantastic art enhanced the entire building. Next stop was the Apartheid museum where one suddenly becomes immersed in the topic: your ticket has randomly assigned you to a white or non- white entrance. The museum experience began with a history of Johannesburg, followed by a Mandela exhibit. A section of the museum dedicated to Apartheid was next, beginning (and punctuated we all agreed) with a fantastic history lesson provided by our guide Nosipho with her only visual aid being a map of early South Africa. Hopefully you either know the story or through our daily blogs are intrigued to learn more! It is a great museum and, like many museums, cannot be thoroughly experienced in one day, let alone the two hours we were there. Nevertheless, we were moved. Back on the minibus to the Soweto township, the largest township in the Johannesburg area. We stopped for lunch at a very touristy open-air restaurant where there was no lack of street performers and vendors. The main attraction here was Mandela’s home before he went to prison and where his family lived while he was incarcerated. After his release, he stayed only 11 days before moving. Last stop for the day was a memorial to the 1976 Soweto uprising and the story of a young Hector Peiterson who was shot during the protest. The photographic images from that day resulted in global outrage towards Apartheid and became yet another turning point in the struggle in that it represented a new generation of protestor and eventually (albeit slowly) led to the demise of the practice. One cannot help but draw parallels between South Africa’s history and our own history of racial injustice. This pilgrimage seeks to understand not only the what, the why and the how of Apartheid but also the evolution of what happened next. There is much to learn about the latter in the next few days. Tomorrow we continue our journey as we travel to Cape Town. – Randy McGuire

A Pilgrim’s Chronicle: The Big Five, a False Alarm, and Other Matters of Great Importance From your correspondent in the wilds of South Africa Dearest gentle reader, Your humble correspondent from the Holy Comforter pilgrimage team returns with another account of our life. Although my introduction may sound suspiciously familiar, please do not confuse me with Lady Whistledown of Bridgerton fame. Unlike that distinguished lady, I have no scandals to reveal or reputations to ruin. My mission is considerably more innocent: to report on the discoveries, adventures, and occasional misadventures of our intrepid pilgrims. And what a day we had! Our day began at an hour even the most dedicated rooster might consider unreasonable. By 4:30 a.m., many of us were awake, preparing for our 5:30 am game drive. Breakfast would not be served until our return, some three and a half hours later. Fortunately, the thoughtful hotel staff provided coffee, tea, and peanut butter biscotti. Hardly a royal banquet, but sufficient to sustain our enthusiasm. Our mission was clear: to complete our encounter with Africa’s celebrated Big Five—the buffalo, lion, elephant, leopard, and rhinoceros. The previous evening, we had already encountered three: elephants, buffalo, and rhinoceroses. Only the elusive feline aristocracy remained. As the African sun rose over the hills, we encountered a family of baboons near Mankwe Dam, engaged in what could only be described as monkey business. Nearby, hippopotamuses enjoyed their morning bath, seemingly indifferent to our presence. Climbing the rocky roads, we encountered zebras, guineafowl, and a herd of wildebeest whose dominant male was vigorously chasing a younger rival who had apparently entertained romantic ambitions toward his females. Dear reader, jealousy, it seems, is not confined to London's drawing rooms! We also admired a magnificent Kori Bustard, an enormous bird whose prehistoric appearance suggested it had personally witnessed the age of dinosaurs. Meanwhile, our jeep bounced along the rocky roads with the grace of a particularly mischievous camel, introducing us to muscles we had long forgotten existed. Then came the moment we had been hoping for. A leopard! About forty yards away, almost perfectly camouflaged, stood this magnificent creature, patiently observing two unsuspecting impalas. As the leopard moved, the impalas detected the danger and escaped at remarkable speed. Deprived of its breakfast, the disappointed predator wandered off. I suspect most of us were secretly relieved by the outcome. Shortly afterward, we encountered a crash of rhinoceroses grazing peacefully beside the road. Yes, gentle reader, crash is indeed the collective noun for a group of rhinoceroses. Their enormous bodies were so close that we could hear their heavy footsteps and even their chewing. It was a remarkable privilege to observe these prehistoric-looking giants in their natural surroundings. But one member of the Big Five remained missing: His Majesty the Lion. Then suddenly, Julie cried out, “LION!” Dylan, our knowledgeable guide, immediately stopped the vehicle. Eleven excited pilgrims turned toward the hillside, binoculars appeared, and everyone began offering increasingly enthusiastic directions. “Where?” “To the left!” “Behind those bushes!” Dear reader, imagine eleven determined observers attempting to identify one particular bush among approximately ten thousand. We searched. We squinted. We adjusted our binoculars. And we saw… absolutely nothing. The sighting was reluctantly declared a false alarm. His Majesty, apparently, had declined our invitation. By then, another urgent matter demanded attention. Several hours of bouncing, excitement, and morning coffee had created certain physiological necessities that could no longer be ignored. Fortunately, a designated rest area appeared just in time. A group of guineafowl approached, apparently hoping for a contribution to their breakfast. Alas, having survived on biscotti and anticipation, we had little sympathy for their predicament. We returned to the resort exhilarated, delighted, and considerably shaken—physically, courtesy of the roads. A magnificent brunch restored our strength before we departed for Johannesburg. Our return journey offered further opportunities for spiritual reflection, particularly concerning the virtues of patience on South African highways. At the hotel, we were welcomed with cranberry juice, warm smiles, and our waiting luggage. After a brief rest, we departed for Constitution Hill, only to discover that finding suitable and secure parking for our bus was an adventure beyond even our resourceful driver, Victor. After several unsuccessful attempts, prudence prevailed. Constitution Hill would have to await another audience with our distinguished company. But the most meaningful moment of the day was still to come. During our customary evening reflection, we shared what had surprised, inspired, and moved us. We spoke of the extraordinary privilege of experiencing God's creation—not through photographs or television, but through our own senses. We remembered the crisp morning air, the warmth of the rising sun, the birdsong, the heavy footsteps of the rhinoceroses, and the distinctive smells of the African bush. We realized that we had not merely seen these magnificent animals. We had heard them, felt their surroundings, and briefly entered the remarkable world God had created for them. What began as an adventurous search for the Big Five became something far more meaningful: an opportunity to marvel at the beauty, complexity, and delicate balance of creation. And perhaps that is one of the quiet gifts of pilgrimage. We begin our journeys with carefully prepared itineraries and expectations of what we hope to discover. Yet often, the greatest gifts are those we never thought to seek. We set out hoping to see five magnificent animals. We returned having encountered something much greater. As for the elusive lion, I am inclined to forgive his absence. After all, even royalty deserves an occasional morning of privacy. Until our next adventure, dearest gentle reader, may your travels be filled with wonder, your hearts with gratitude, and your journeys with considerably fewer potholes. Your devoted correspondent from the Holy Comforter pilgrimage team P.S. Four of the Big Five graciously granted us an audience. His Majesty the Lion, however, declined to appear. One can only conclude that even in the African wilderness, royalty keeps its own schedule. – Rogelio Marchetti